Dispatches From Bonaire

Goedendag, Hoe gaat het met u? That's Good day, how do you do? in freeky-deeky Dutch. I should be proficient in saying hello in Dutch by the time I leave. That, as well as how to order Bitterballen, the Dutch fried mystery meat delicacy.

Apologies that you haven't had much to read here this week, but my schedule since arriving on Bonaire has been incredibly full. It's meetings, diving, more meetings, public presentations, interviews, island tours, yet more meetings, and--if you ask me--way too little rum drinking (as was promised).

Bonaire is incredible, both above and below the water. I don't have an underwater camera, so you'll just have to trust me or come see for yourselves. Bonaire touts itself as a Divers Paradise and they are not lying. Great coral cover for the Caribbean (close to 50%), blizzards of fish, amazing diversity of invertebrates, and lots of dive spots with the freedom to dive as often as you like. However, there's been much talk and concern here about how paradise may be threatened by the imminent growth of cruise tourism. More on that later when I have time to write.

Till then, here's a sampler of the week thus far:

These things are everywhere on the island. And if you ever wondered how Galapagos marine iguanas evolved, well you begin with this sort of situation:


Here's the dock and our dive boat loading-up at Captain Don's Dive Resort, my base of operations this week. How crazy is that water color?:


This is a famous dive spot on the island called 1000 Steps. I have no intention of hauling my gear up this:


Half of my crew from today's one-tank dive. We visited a spot called Kalli's Reef, named after my conservation colleague Kalli De Meyer, Executive Director of the Dutch Caribbean Nature Alliance, and former Bonaire MPA Manager. The woman smiling in front is Lyn Ciocca, CORAL Board of Director's Chair:


There's a cruise ship that comes into port weekly that's run by the crazy Scientologists. If there is a hell, it is being stuck on a ship with Scientologists. Hmmm, Scientology cruise ship? Tom Cruise? Coincidence?:


We did a night tour of the island, and I spotted something on the side of the road. It was tough to ID but I think it was a feral pig. It didn't look particularly piggy to me:


If you visit, you must eat at Warung Louise, the Indonesian restaurant in downtown Kralendijk. Louise is the grandma whose Surabaya recipes are the foundation for every dish. And I sampled a lot of dishes! I met Louise' daughter and granddaughter who both cook and serve meals. Everyone at Louise' was incredibly friendly and made me feel at home. Oh, and the food is terrific. Why Indonesian in Bonaire? It's that Dutch colonial influence again. Not strictly traditional Javanese eats, but all the better for the Caribbean influences. I got the entire crew to pose for a pic. Thanks gang!:


And finally, what would a field post on Malaria, Bedbugs, Sea Lice, and Sunsets be without at least one sunset. This was taken last night while nursing a well deserved rum punch and reclining in a lounge chair on the dock. Don't hate me: