I'm in beautiful Pacific Grove, California, for the next few days as I attend the National Marine Educators Association Conference. Ah, Pacific Grove, or just PG to the locals. Hallowed stomping grounds of my hero, the legendary American marine biologist Ed Ricketts.
When I moved to California in 1997, I didn't bring much with me. A futon bed, some clothes suitable for San Francisco's microclimates, a box of my old field journals, and a single book: my copy of Ed Ricketts Between Pacific Tides, his pioneering study of Pacific intertidal ecology. Not a field guide, per se. And certainly not the most accessible of books. Nonetheless, Ricketts book meticulously describes the intertidal zonation patterns of the Pacific Coast as well as the ecology and aspects of the natural history of the organisms that live there.As an east coast marine biologist trained and familiar with life between Atlantic tides, I had a lot to learn on Pacific shores and I knew I wanted to learn from the master.
I've made many sojourns down to the Monterey Peninsula since moving to San Francisco. I've walked along Cannery Row, though have found it impossible to glean any sense of place from Ricketts heyday. Bubba Gumps and Starbucks have effectively destroyed any vestige of the working class fishing town immortalized by Steinbeck. I've stood in front of the life-sized bust of Ed Rickets near the corner of Wave and Drake Streets, site of the long-defunct rail crossing where in 1948 the Del Monte Express hit Ricketts car. Ed Ricketts died three days later. But even here, I still didn't feel like I touched the man.
It wasn't until I was knee-deep in the Great Tide Pool near Point Pinos, in Pacific Grove that I really felt like I could understand Ed Ricketts. Ricketts was known to collect specimens in the Great Tide Pool area and John Steinbeck mentions the Great Tide Pool in his book Cannery Row. There, legs numb in the cold Pacific water and entangled in rubbery Egregia menziesii, I understood I'd at last found the man in one of his most cherished haunts.
In The Log from the Sea of Cortez, John Steinbeck traveled with, observed, debated, and drank with Ed Ricketts over the course of six weeks. While much of the "action" tends to focus on the Mexican leg of their journey, I've always loved their first few days along the rocky California coast of Monterey. In these early pages, Steineck expounded on “the brilliant colors, the swarming species” of tide pools. A simple study of a “small and perfect pool,” he concluded, offers an understanding that “all things are one thing and that one thing is all things.”
I still haven't made my own sense of that most favorite of Steinbeck's and Rickett's riddles. But it's nice to be in PG yet again, and get a few more chances to get my legs wet and puzzle it over.
Keep checking back through the week for conference updates.






























