
My whacky schedule gives me only a single day on Mount Desert Island, Maine's largest island, but I managed to fit in all my work, proofed three grant reports, and still had time for some fun outdoors. My only complaint is that for the entire time I've been on the island, the temperature has been hovering in the 90's throughout the day. This is truly bizarre weather on an island in the North Atlantic where summer dress normally consists of wool sweaters and mittens.

My day started with an early meeting with Jill Barlow-Kelley, the Director of Internships at the
College of the Atlantic (COA) in Bar Harbor. With a student body of 300 undergraduates, COA is a small school with a major difference - literally. All students major in
Human Ecology. Human ecology integrates knowledge from all academic disciplines and from personal experience to investigate, and ultimately improve, the relationships between human beings and our social and natural communities. My meeting was to learn about the college's internship process and explore how COA students unique academic preparation might fit into my coral conservation projects around the world. I learned a lot from Jill and think the potential for internship collaboration would benefit both COA and CORAL. And thanks, Jill, for the great coffee!
After my meeting, I decided to drive up to the highest point on MDI, Cadillac Mountain. At 1571 feet above sea level, it's hardly a mountain by western US standards. But Cadillac is in fact the tallest coastal geologic feature on the eastern continental coastline north of Sugarloaf Mountain in Brazil. Allegedly, anyone possessing the will to wake-up early enough to stand atop Cadillac's summit can claim the distinction of being among the first in the continental US to witness the sunrise that day. I wasn't eager to join that courageous cohort, so a midday visit would be perfectly adequate.

As you drive up Cadillac on the winding switch-backs of a road, you notice how the granite bedrock of the island appears sliced in places or how the rock is weathering in layers that appear to be sloughing away a layer at a time. This is the characteristic jointing that granite demonstrates as it weathers. The rock literally cleaves along planes nearly perpendicular to each other. This leads to the blocky appearance of the bedrock and the onion-like peeling away of layers. Mount Desert's granite is a peculiar pinkish orange color with large crystal size. This pinkish hue results from the particular chemical composition of feldspar in the island's granite recipe. Granite, an igneous rock, is a blend of minerals, typically quartz, feldspar, hornblende, and mica. Specific chemical variables within these minerals effect overall color of the rock. The rate of cooling of magma determines crystal size.

Up at the summit, you get a spectacular view of most of the east and south of the island. The summit is usually a place where you can find some relief from hot summer temperatures, but not today. All the island granite had been baking under a scorching sun for several days now, and the nighttime temps didn't offer much opportunity for cooling. As a result, the summit felt like I was standing in a convection oven. I strolled the summit trail and, as I always do when visiting the island, imagined the two mile thick layer of glacial ice that scraped across this summit during the last ice age. I'll say that again for full effect:
two miles of ice covered and flowed across the rock I was now standing on. And like an enormous dirty ice cube, the ice picked-up rock, sand, and other abrasives and scoured the underlying bedrock. It smoothed the granite mountains into the rounded appearance we now see, gouged out deep valleys between the mountains (see the island diorama at top of post) and dug the deep fjord, Somes Sound, that almost bisects the island in half.
The plant life atop the summit has a tough existence. Looking around, you notice the same tree species as were growing near the base of the mountain. Except, where the spruce and cedars were 30 foot trees at the mountain base, here on the summit they were 2-3 foot dwarfs. It's not hard to see how this natural bonsai-effect results. The terrain is solid granite with very little ability to retain water. What soil that's there is thin and primitive. Lichen start the soil succession by eroding the durable granite into small particles.


This loose, rocky material (cryptogam) provides enough substrate for grasses to sprout. Over time, more organic material accumulates, bird poop provides occasional nitrogen (a fertilizer), and voila... a basic and harsh plant ecosystem evolves.

Now nearing high noon and thoroughly damp with sweat, I knew immediately how to cool down in a most civilized way: tea and popovers on the great lawn of the
Jordan Pond House. The Jordan Pond House traces its history back to 1847. The original farm house was built by the Jordan family of Seal Harbor, for whom the adjacent pond and house were named. It was converted into a restaurant in the early 1870's. The house traded hands over the years until John D. Rockefeller, Jr. purchased the property in 1946 and gave it to the National Park Service to ensure its continuation. There's an indescribable joy of relaxation one experiences while enjoying a pot of Darjeeling tea and fresh-baked popovers while sitting under the shade of an umbrella in this incredibly beautiful place. Life is, indeed, good.

After this hedonistic diversion, it was unfortunately time to get back to my day job. I had a pile of grant reports to pour through and several needed to be submitted before close of business today. On my drive back to Bar Harbor along the park loop road, I paused briefly at Bubble Rock. I've seen this particular sight many times and have hiked the short trail up to this geologic wonder too many times to remember. Bubble Rock is known as a glacial erratic, a rock that was picked-up, transported, and deposited by the movement of glacial ice. In this case, the type of granite that comprises Bubble Rock matches rock from 30-40 miles north of Mount Desert Island.

Understanding and appreciating geology requires an active imagination. I love to look at landforms like this and imagine what the process must have looked like as time progressed. This gigantic boulder, a mere speck of sand compared to the mass of a glacier, was snatched from its point of origin and moved south along the glacial conveyor belt. Here and there it may have scraped along the bedrock leaving behind glacial striations just like a chisel point under an artists hand might carve or shape rough rock. As glacial expansion stopped and global temperatures warmed, the erratic was deposited on this precarious ledge on
South Bubble Mountain. It truly gives you an appreciation of deep time and the scale and pace of some geologic activity.