With the arrival today in Miami of Royal Caribbean Cruise Line's Oasis of the Sea--the world's biggest cruise ship ever constructed--I thought it would be worthwhile to dust off this piece I wrote back in 2007 when RCCL launched plans for what it was then calling it's Genesis Project.
Originally Published 5/6/07Start with your typical American outdoor mall experience, like the self-proclaimed
urban oasis of
Santana Row in San Jose, California. Here you'll find over 70 shops, 20 restaurants, 5 spas, 1 hotel... all for your shopping pleasure.

Not good enough? Well, how about if it's all enclosed in climate controlled comfort. After all, there's no need to sweat while you shop. And let's throw in a casino and a few nightclubs to keep the party going all night long. Oh, and don't worry about carrying cash around. It's not even accepted in any of the shops! Got kids? No problem, there's a movie theater, video arcade, water park, and even roving Disney characters to keep the tots smiling. And when dad gets his fill of shopping and starts rolling his eyes, just send him to the driving range or rock climbing wall. Finally, to ensure that everyone stays happy, the on-site hotel can accommodate
every single visitor. Lovely idea, but
impossible you say? Impractical? Fantasy, right?
Well, take this entire self-contained urban/suburban fantasy oasis and float it inside one of these:

Welcome to the reality of cruise ship tourism, the fastest growing segment of "sun and sand" tourism and perhaps the greatest recreational threat to coral reef health today.
Why such a threat? It's a matter of scale. With an 8% annual growth since 1980, cruise tourism has increased at almost twice the rate of tourism overall. A record 8.35 million people took cruises worldwide in 2005. By 2010 that number is expected to double. The North American market (which includes the Caribbean) is the dominant one, and in 2005 it grew by 8.6% to reach 3.4 million cruise passengers (a 6% increase over 2004.) In 1998, 71 cruise ships (which can carry over 93,000 passengers) from 24 lines plied the Caribbean, some year-round and some seasonally.

While new cruise markets begin to expand in the Pacific, the Caribbean is likely to maintain its position as the most popular cruise destination in the world because of increasing preference for shorter cruises and an ever-younger market. The 2-5 day cruise accounts for some 37% of the total product. Its convenient proximity to North America makes it an easily accessible "pleasure periphery" (actual industry term) for that market. Miami has ensured its place as the major hub from which most ships into the region operate, with up to 30 departures a week. Other major destinations include the Mediterranean (15%), Alaska (8%) trans-Panama Canal (6%), west Mexico (5%) and northern Europe (4%). The length of the cruise season in these locations, however, is determined by climatic conditions.
The South Pacific as a destination attracts only 2.2% of the world's biggest and most lucrative cruise market, North America, and Australia's own cruise passenger generating capacity has remained consistently low and very specific in its product requirement.
The "big three" cruise companies are
Carnival,
Royal Caribbean International, and
Princess that collectively control over two-thirds of the North American market.
Star Cruises, a Malaysian-based company which caters primarily to Asian tourists aims to be the fourth largest. On the Asian ships a high percentage of passengers cruise in order to access gambling facilities that are not readily - or legally - available in their home countries, while the ships provide many activities to occupy their families.

Anticipating the explosive growth in cruise tourism, Royal Caribbean International is about to debut its modern day
Titanic of cruise ships: the Genesis Class. The first ship of this class, as yet unnamed (though, if it follows suit of previous lines, it will likely be named Genesis of the Seas), is expected to surpass the Freedom-class ships as the world's largest passenger ship in autumn 2009. It will be able to accommodate up to
5,400 passengers, will have a gross tonnage of about 220,000 tons and has cost the line around US$1.24 billion.

It has been estimated by the
International Maritime Organization (IMO) that up to two kilograms (4.4 pounds) of waste per passenger per day is generated aboard cruise ships. While some cruise ships have their own waste-processing facilities (as an interesting aside, I have colleagues who report cruise line execs demonstrating the efficiency of their on-board waste processing facilities by
drinking a glass of the final processed product), many more do not. When ships rely upon ports of call to process their waste, it puts extra strain on the land-based facilities of islands. In fact, the reason why not all countries have signed the
International Convention for the Prevention of Pollution From Ships (or MARPOL, short for
marine pollution) is that to sign it would increase the pressure on their own land dumps. By not signing it, countries are not obliged to provide waste-disposal facilities and can refuse to accept garbage from cruise ships. Yet according to the IMO, this tempts cruise ships to dump at sea, whether legally or illegally.
But what if all ships could clean-up their act and process their wastes? Do cruise ships still pose a threat to coral reefs or ocean health? Consider that when these behemoths visit ports of call, a large percentage of the passengers (when not

shopping) will disembark and board smaller boats (local snorkel and dive companies holding contracts with the cruise lines) that ferry them to the reefs and drop them into the water en masse. Important to note is that the vast bulk of these reef recreationists receive no environmental briefings on coral-safe snorkel or dive behavior, are either inept or inexperienced snorkelers or divers who have a tendency to "go vertical" in the water where their fins can do the most damage to fragile coral, and the majority of these tourists are poorly supervised. Now repeat this process daily, 365 days a year and you start to get a sense of the impact. You have likely experienced this daily reality if you've visited Cozumel.

The largest inhabited island in Mexico and the oldest in the Caribbean group, Cozumel is located 12 miles off the eastern coast of the mainland (Yucatan Peninsula.) The island is 34 miles long (north to south) and 11 miles wide (east to west.) Cozumel is one of the top 5 dive destinations in the world thanks to the stunning coral reefs that are located just off it's southwestern coast.

These reefs comprise the northern section of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, second largest barrier reef on the planet (second only in size to the Great Barrier Reef off Australia) and stretch from Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala to the Bay Islands of Honduras. In 1998, 742 cruise vessels were reported in Cozumel and the maximum at one time was 11, although there are berths for up to 13 ships. With larger ships, many arriving at once, the numbers stress the existing capacity of the small town of
San Miguel, as well as the available infrastructure.

Though receiving heavy use, tourism on Cozumel's reefs is not quite a free-for-all. The Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park was created by Presidential Decree in July of 1996. It embraces the southwest, south and southeast coast of the island and covers about 85% of the diving sites around the island, a total area of 67,133 acres. The Marine Park's goals are to protect the islands natural resources and to conserve and sustain their use over the long term.

Park Manager, Robert Cudney, has instituted a variety of management strategies including scientific research, monitoring, regulation of commercial activities, education for environmental awareness, and promotion of ecologically-based (eco) tourism. But effective management is expensive. To achieve its objectives, the Marine Park, with municipal authorization, requires all visitors in the park pay a tourism/user fee of $20 pesos ($2.00 US) per day per person. The funds raised (according to the marine park website) are supposed to be used exclusively for purposes of reef conservation in the Cozumel Reefs National Park. On the ground evidence suggests this may not be entirely factual.

But again, I mention the problem of scale. To make conservation work, efforts cannot solely target the small operators carrying the cruise passengers to reef encounters. Conservation efforts must target the cruise lines themselves. The overwhelming majority of Caribbean cruise passengers are interested in swimming along coral reefs. Several interesting strategies are currently underway to test whether the cruise industry has the will and vision to preserve these Caribbean reefs and, ultimately, their bottom line. I've been working in four nations along the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef for the past five years to help codify marine tourism standards for best environmental behavior by local tourism providers. Conservation International and their
Center for Environmental Leadership in Business (CELB) has been attempting to work with cruise industry executives to build awareness and agreements to partner with conservationists. The message is a simple one:
Healthy reefs means healthy business. Together, we're trying to squeeze both ends of the supply chain to drastically reduce tourism's footprint on Caribbean reefs.
But enormous businesses, just like enormous ships, don't turn on a dime. Thus far, Royal Caribbean has been the only major cruise line willing to come to the table and agree to contract with local tourism providers who employ best environmental practices through implementation of our standards. That's why it's important to simultaneously maintain a bottom-up approach to conservation efforts. While the hope is that cruise lines will have the vision to arrange contracts with operators in each port who are operating in an environmentally sustainable manner and are implementing marine tourism standards, we are hedging our bets and working with
as many small operators as possible so that ultimately the only kind of marine tourism available in destinations like Cozumel
is reef sustaining.
I have no delusions that this will be easy. In addition to reef damage from mass tourism, we still have all the other local and global reef threats to contend with. But I believe in
resilience, I believe in the power of collaboration and conservation partnerships, and I believe that people will only change behaviors when they care. But caring requires understanding. Maybe this post began that process for you.